Considering a front disc brake conversion with power assistance. Here’s what my research as found so far:
Two main consideration looking for kits for front discs to replace the drums:
- Some kits provide rotors that work on existing drum brake spindles
- There is a Scarebird option that just provides the bracket and then a parts list where you can use off the shelf rotors and calipers for Dodge vehicle, that work on existing drum spindles
- Some kits provide replacement spindles
Kits that include new spindles
Reading forums online it appears 1965 may have different kingpins from other years. The LMC Truck kit is the only one that acknowledges this. Other kits seem to be for ranges of years. This convinces me I do not want to be messing with replacing the spindles and kingpins.
| Source | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| LMC Truck | 835 | Cost includes 1965-specific kingpins, rubber hoses |
| Jamco | 720 | Rubber hoses |
| Classic Performance | 700 | Rubber hoses |
| Classic Disk Brakes | 1100 | Includes master cylinder, proportioning valve |
Kits that work on existing drum spindles
| Source | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Scarebird | $420 | Scarebird kit just contains the brackets for $190. Reading forums, total cost would be $420, including rotors, calipers, pads, hoses Ford-Trucks Scarebird Parts List |
| Wilwood | $941 | Total price includes the stainless steel Brake line kit |
| Master Power Brakes | $1429 | There is an option that includes a power master cylinder with combination valve for $1679 |
| Disc Brake Conversion | $1200 | Includes power master cylinder but doesn’t look like it includes a proportioning valve |
I’ve watched some videos and read quite a few posts and it appears that removing the spindles (specifically, the kingpins) can be difficult, requiring strong presses, heat etc. Given that there is an option to replace without replacing spindles, I’m inclined to do that.
When considering a new power assisted master cylinder I’d like one that mounts up easily and works with the existing brake pedal with minimal adjustment. There are lots of options out there. However, there are two other considerations:
- Since we’ll have front discs a larger bore is required
- For a front disc and rear drum set-up, a proportioning valve is needed to avoid locking the rear brakes
- 1965 F100 has an integrated brake light pressure switch built into the single master cylinder. We’ll need one of those. There are options to replace with a pedal-activiated brake switch, but I’d like to keep things simple
Its possible to purchase a master cylinder, separate proportioning valve, some with and some without provision for integrated brake light pressure switch. The more distinct parts, the more brake line fabricating and mounting to firewall will have to be done.
Master Cylinder Options
| Source | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Master Power Brakes | $390 | This doesn’t appear to include a proportioning valve, so doesn’t meet criteria. One could probably be added for about $85. |
| Classic Performance | $330 | Includes proportioning valve and brake light pressure switch |
| Roll-my-own | $250 | Forum posts indicate can purchase a firewall bracket, booster, master, proportioning valve for 1973-era F100s. Quick scan for parts shows could be up to $250 cost |
So purchasing individual parts is a cheaper route and I’d end up with standard replaceable F100 parts for power booster and master cylinder. The biggest outstanding question if there are any issues with rod length on the power booster.
My Choices
That leaves me with the following criteria:
- I want a disc conversion kit that fits on existing spindles
- I want a power master cylinder that includes a proportioning valve and brake light pressure switch fitting
Summary of choices:
- Master Power Brakes for $1679
- Scarebird plus master cylinder / power booster. $670 – $750. Advantage here is I’d be left with standard interchangeable parts for Dodge vehicles
- Wilwood kit plus master cylinder power booster. As a bonus this also includes stainless flex lines. $1191-$1271
MPB brakes, while a complete kit, seems particularly expensive. Scarebird is tempting as a low-cost option. However, for a job like this I can only imagine there are a number of potential issues with matching wheel bearing size and other seals, clips and caps and so the Wilwood kit would provide more comfort and manufacturer support. However, that comes at a $500 premium.
And while purchasing standard 73-era F100 parts is tempting, for basically an extra $80 I’d prefer to buy a complete master cylinder / booster kit with manufacturer support.
Other stuff needed
The original single master cylinder has one line that runs to a coupling that then splits to both front brakes and one line that runs to the rear. Typically the proportioning valve has outputs for both front brakes and one for the rear. To my plan would be to create two hard lines, one for each front brake and a single hard line that I would run down and couple to the existing line that runs to the rear.
I’ve never made brake lines before so will need all the tools:
Brake Line – $34 for 25 feet of 3/16″. Includes 10 nuts of size I think I need.
Unions – $10 for 10. Pretty sure I’ll only need one.
Bending Tool – There are a lot of cheap benders out there. Even for pricier ones, while they all advertise ability to bend 3/16″ tubing, reading the reviews they seem to indicate they use 1/4″ dies and can lead to kinks. This is the only one I’ve found so far specifically for 3/16″. Speedway Handheld Tube Bender – $107. Here’s a cheaper one for $75 – Rigid Tools Or an even cheaper one for $40 OTC Tools
Flaring Tool – $175. There are cheaper option, but I think this will make or break (brake!) the experience of making these new hard lines. I’d rather have something that works first time. However, it does need a vise to work, which I don’t currently have. This handheld one does have good reviews though
4Lifetimes handheld – $40 Or this Titan tool – $40. Might give the cheaper ones a try and upgrade if its not working. Actually just read some reviews of this some commented that it was better than the Titan: Lisle – $63
Cutting Tool – $45. I might also consider this smaller, cheaper one Speedway
Straightener – $80. Do I need a tube straightener? Tubing is coiled, perhaps? Although I’m running minimal length.
Minimum:
- Flaring Tool – $63
- Cutting Tool – $12
- Bending Tool – $40
- Brake Line – $34
- Union – $10
Total = $160
Recommendation
I’m going to go with the Wilwood kit, Classic Performance master power cylinder and the basic set of tools to begin with for about $1400 all in.